After an exceptional ride from Verkhovani to Gogrulta we had at last arrived in the little hamlet we had spied upon the horizon a year ago from Docho. Our journey to Gogrulta had been fraught with problems. The previous bad weather had washed away what little trail there was, although Goggi and Irma managed to pick our way across ravines and make our way via an assortment of goat trails and dodgy advice from passing shepherds. The eventual journey we did take was spectacular. Passing through magnificent birch forests with glades of wild flowers from another world. Every so often we would break out from the forest onto soft dreamy pastures looking out over the Tusheti Mountains. This part of Tusheti is possibly the most untouched and unspoilt we have ever seen although goodness knows how on earth one would find it again.
The following selection of images are some of those we took while staying with Lily and her husband Socrat . Their farmhouse stood perched on the side of the cliff looking out across Tusheti. A great place to stay with a brand new guest house all made by Socrat. I strongly recommend it.
Lily's new guest house can be seen in the group of buildings top right in this image.
This shrine, like many others ,is off limits for women and sits at the entrance to the village close by the water trough. Such shrines play a complex role for the villages. First taking the role as a holy place, representing Christian beliefs. Secondly the ram is represented on the shrine , harking back to early beliefs where the ram was ( and still is to some degree) the embodiment of the world that surrounds the Tush . The ram is sacrificed on festival days with its blood cast over the shrine when slaughted. On such occasions bread, cheese and Chacha (local vodka) are eaten and drunk as part of the ritual. Such a combination of beliefs might appear contradictory to the outsider. To me it's the fusion between the new and old ways of life in the mountains and in many ways the symbolism of the ram holds a stronger grip than the established church.
Here is Socrat toasting Tusheti, our family and the world we all live in. Socrat is one of the most accomplished people I have ever come across. He has made nearly everything on his small holding . From the stools we sat on to the ladle and wooden bowls used to make their cheese. He made the saddle for his horse and shod his horse with shoes he made himself. For that matter he restored the guest house we stayed in making all the furniture.
Socrat takes his materials from the landscape he lives in and using his a smithy and a joiners yard he is able to be totally independent of the outside world ,supporting his small dairy farm run by Lily. Socrat is also very generous with his Chacha.
Lily making Khinkali with her grandson at her side.
Butter making barrels made by Socrat.
Lily's fireplace and the very best place to cook her delicious food.
One night a group of French travellers arrived. I don't think they knew how to party and certainly looked at us with disdain as we knocked back the Chacha. However I'm sure they loosened up later in their travels.
We had an exceptional party in Gogrulta although many of our pictures didn't come out.
Zocrat, me and some of the men from the village. This was the beginning of a long session ending with dancing over the fire.
In no particular order, the following images represent Lily and Socrat's life in Gogrulta
This year the girls were keen to light a fire by the river . Perhaps this was to keep the bears away that were worrying the cattle up the mountain. Melissa's imagination got carried away with her and she was convinced that if it wasn't bears it must be blood thirsty wolves who might whisk her daughters away into the deep dark forest of Tusheti. Well neither the wolves or the bears could be bothered to turn up so we don't have any pictures of Goggi protecting my daughters from fierce beasts ,although based on previous experience we would have seen them off given half a chance with his Flip flops - Goggi traveled everywhere with his Flip Flops, as a result they took on a mythical dimension.
Breakfast is always a welcome feast especially at Patti's. 
After making our way back up the valley towards Omalo we turned off towards Ilyulta (I hope this is correct). Although this is small village it's important since Ilyulta is the only other village apart from Shenako that has a village church. Pasma has what they might call a church but it is more of a large shrine.
The Wills family in a rather forgotten and sorry looking church. With the new awakening to the Georgian church I expect it will be rejuvenated with the fullness of time.
One of Goggi's friends caught up with us to say bye. I just thought the mixture of typical street jeans and trainers next to a traditional saddle and a fit horse was the best.
Iona taking it easy by a waterfall.
We met a couple of wood cutters on our way to Gogulta working with axe and handsaw. No chainsaws here.
Gogrulta, a small hamlet with no direct road to it, only very precarious and steep paths. You can get there from the main valley track from Omolo but the climb is very hard indeed. We saw this village from a distance last year and wanted to make a visit. Our host Lilly and her husband have made an excellent guest house and I think it is fair to say that Gogrulta is one of the most magical places in Tusheti and for us a two day stay.
Perched on top of the world.
